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Underhand Braid vs. Overhand Cornrow

by Lisa / Sunday, 07 May 2023 / Published in Hair FAQs
How to Make Individual Braids With Hair Extensions

The world of hairstyling is rich with techniques that cater to a diverse range of textures, preferences, and creative expressions. Among these, braiding has stood the test of time as one of the most versatile and culturally significant practices. Two widely recognized and often compared braiding styles are the underhand braid and overhand cornrow. Though they may appear similar to the untrained eye, these styles have distinct differences in technique, appearance, and application. Understanding these differences can help enthusiasts achieve the perfect look for their hair type and desired aesthetic.

1. The Underhand Braid: Definition and Technique

The underhand braid, sometimes referred to as a Dutch braid, is created by weaving hair strands under one another, resulting in a raised or "3D" appearance. This technique involves dividing the hair into three equal sections and repeatedly crossing the outer sections under the middle section. The underhand motion creates a braid that seems to sit on top of the hair, making it visually prominent.

This style is highly adaptable and can be incorporated into numerous designs, such as crown braids, double Dutch braids, or even simple single braids. It works well for medium to long hair and is ideal for creating a bold, structured look. The underhand braid is also favored in formal and casual settings alike, as it provides a neat, polished finish.

2. The Overhand Cornrow: Definition and Technique

The overhand cornrow, on the other hand, is a traditional African braiding method where hair is braided close to the scalp in a flat, continuous motion. This technique involves weaving hair strands over one another while simultaneously feeding in small sections of hair from the scalp. The result is a smooth, sleek braid that lies flat against the head, creating a streamlined appearance.

Cornrows are typically done in straight rows, but they can also be styled into intricate patterns and designs, making them a versatile choice for wearers seeking detailed or artistic hair presentations. The overhand method ensures the braid stays close to the scalp, offering a protective hairstyle option that can last for weeks with proper care.

3. Key Differences Between Underhand Braid and Overhand Cornrow

While both styles involve braiding, their techniques and outcomes are fundamentally different. The table below highlights the key differences between the two:

Aspect Underhand Braid Overhand Cornrow
Technique Hair strands are crossed under each other. Hair strands are crossed over each other.
Appearance Raised, three-dimensional braid. Flat braid close to the scalp.
Functionality Can be free-hanging or incorporated into styles. Primarily a protective style, stays in place for long periods.
Hair Length Works best on medium to long hair. Suitable for all hair lengths, particularly shorter hair.
Cultural Significance Used widely across cultures, often for styling. Deep roots in African heritage, used for protection and cultural expression.

4. Pros and Cons of Each Style

Each style has its own set of advantages and disadvantages, depending on the wearer’s needs and preferences.

Underhand Braid:

Pros:

  • Creates a visually prominent and unique texture.
  • Works well for formal and casual looks.
  • Easier to learn for beginners compared to cornrows.

Cons:

  • Not as protective as cornrows.
  • May unravel faster if not secured properly.

Overhand Cornrow:

Pros:

  • Offers a protective style that promotes hair health.
  • Can last for weeks with proper care.
  • Perfect for intricate and artistic designs.

Cons:

  • Requires more skill and time to achieve.
  • May cause tension on the scalp if done too tightly.

5. Styling and Maintenance Tips

Regardless of whether you choose an underhand braid or an overhand cornrow, proper styling and maintenance are essential for ensuring the longevity of your look.

For Underhand Braids:

  • Use high-quality products like SISHAIR styling mousse to tame flyaways and create a polished finish.
  • Secure the ends of the braid with durable elastics to prevent unraveling.
  • Re-braid every few days to maintain the neatness of the style.

For Overhand Cornrows:

  • Moisturize your scalp regularly with lightweight oils to prevent dryness.
  • Wrap your hair in a silk or satin scarf at night to reduce frizz and maintain the braids.
  • Avoid excessive tension on the scalp during the braiding process to prevent breakage.

6. Choosing the Right Style for You

Selecting between an underhand braid and overhand cornrow depends on various factors such as your hair type, texture, lifestyle, and personal preferences. If you are seeking a statement-making look for a special occasion, underhand braids may be your best bet. On the other hand, if you are looking for a low-maintenance, protective style that can withstand daily wear, overhand cornrows are an excellent choice.

Additionally, cultural significance can play a role in your decision. Cornrows carry a rich history and connection to African heritage, making them a meaningful choice for those who wish to embrace their roots. Underhand braids, while less culturally specific, are a creative option that can be tailored to various aesthetics.

Conclusion

Both the underhand braid and the overhand cornrow are exquisite braiding techniques that have stood the test of time due to their unique characteristics and versatility. While the underhand braid offers a raised, dimensional appeal suitable for creative styling, the overhand cornrow provides a protective, flat braid with deep cultural significance. Ultimately, the choice between these two styles boils down to personal preference, hair type, and occasion. With proper care and styling products like those from SISHAIR, you can achieve a stunning look that complements your individuality while protecting your natural hair.

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